Greek colonists planted vines on Issa — today's island of Vis — in the fourth century BC, and on Hvar the Stari Grad plain, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is still farmed within its original Greek land divisions: twenty-four centuries of continuous cultivation on the same surveyed plots. Vines here grow in pockets of red earth among bare karst limestone, between the bura wind and the heat of the stone.
Dalmatia's modern fame came from a detective story. The long hunt for zinfandel's origins ended in 2001 in a vineyard at Kaštela, near Split: the ancient local grape tribidrag — a parent of plavac mali, the coast's leading red — proved identical to California's signature variety, making Dalmatia its genetic homeland.