The Greeks planted here from the eighth century BC, and Sicily became the cellar of Magna Graecia — wine was among the island's first exports and never ceased to be. Its modern fortunes began with an Englishman: John Woodhouse, who in 1773 fortified a shipment of local white for the voyage home and founded the Marsala trade that dominated the island for a century.
For most of the twentieth century Sicily was Italy's anonymous bulk-wine island, its huge harvest shipped north in tankers. The turn of the 2000s changed everything: Etna's black slopes were replanted and rediscovered, Nero d'Avola became an estate wine rather than a blending one, and Cerasuolo di Vittoria won the island's only DOCG — Italy's old south, suddenly its most exciting region.