Monastic Germany's grandest vineyard. Kloster Eberbach, founded by Cistercians in 1136, ran the largest wine estate of medieval Europe from this bank of the Rhine; Schloss Johannisberg converted entirely to Riesling in 1720, and in 1775 stumbled into Spätlese when the courier bringing the harvest order arrived late and the shrivelled grapes made the finest wine anyone remembered.
The Rheingau kept measuring itself: the Prussian vineyard classification of 1867 mapped these slopes cru by cru, decades ahead of most of France. At its western end, the village of Assmannshausen guards a pocket of Pinot Noir that is Germany's oldest red-wine tradition — an exception proving the rule of a hillside otherwise given wholly to Riesling.