Settled in the 1420s, the island was planted almost at once with malvasia brought from Crete, and its fortune was made by geography: Madeira sat astride the Atlantic sailing routes, and its wine, uniquely, was improved by the voyage — the heat and motion of the ship's hold rounded and deepened it, a discovery the island later reproduced on land in warm estufa lodges.
Madeira became the cellar of colonial America, poured to toast the Declaration of Independence in 1776. Oidium and then phylloxera devastated the vineyard in the nineteenth century, and it never regained its old extent: today a few hundred hectares of tiny terraced poios climb from the sea into the cloud line, tended by hand between the banana groves.