Cyprus may have five and a half millennia of wine behind it: the residue-bearing jars found at Erimi are among the oldest evidence of winemaking in the Mediterranean. Under the Crusader kingdoms the island's fame peaked, when commandaria — a sun-dried sweet wine still made in the Troodos villages — became the luxury of medieval Europe's courts.
Altitude was the island's second protector: phylloxera never reached the high Troodos vineyards, so old bush vines of xynisteri and mavro stand ungrafted at up to 1,400 metres, among the highest in the Mediterranean. The wine world largely forgot Cyprus in the twentieth century; a new generation of small mountain wineries is rediscovering the island vineyard by vineyard.