A small slope facing its grand neighbour: the Jura vineyard hangs on the first hills across the Bresse plain from Burgundy, and grew up in its mirror. Its wines are like nothing else — vin jaune aged for years under a veil of yeast, vin de paille from grapes dried on straw, pale reds from Poulsard and Trousseau.
Louis Pasteur grew up at Arbois and kept a vineyard there, using its wines for the experiments on fermentation that founded microbiology. Phylloxera and rural exodus shrank the region from some twenty thousand hectares to two thousand; obscurity preserved its oddities intact, until the sommeliers of the 2000s turned the smallest of France's classic vineyards into one of its most sought-after.