The Roman Via Aemilia, which named the region, strings its cities like beads along the edge of the Po plain — Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna. This is the food capital of Italy, and the richest table in Europe drinks its own wine with it: frothing lambrusco, whose red foam cuts through the fat of the local cooking as nothing else does.
Vast cooperative production in the twentieth century made lambrusco a byword for cheap sweetness abroad, and the region deeply unfashionable. The revival came from Sorbara, whose pale, bone-dry, sharply acidic lambrusco reminded drinkers what the wine had always been at home; grower bottlings and the Apennine foothills' sangiovese and pignoletto have made Emilia interesting again.