Rome's Gallia Narbonensis, planted within a generation of the legions' arrival, and still recognisably Roman country: olive, vine and garrigue under a hard blue sky. The mistral scours the valley clean of cloud and rot; the rolled quartzite pebbles — the galets — that pave Châteauneuf give back the day's furnace heat all night.
The Avignon popes gave the vineyard its first fame in the fourteenth century, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape gave France a template: Baron Le Roy's rules of 1936 made it a founding appellation contrôlée. Around it stretches the sea of the Côtes du Rhône, Grenache-led, warm and generous — the largest reservoir of serious everyday red in France.