Hungarian until 1921, Austrian since: when the border was redrawn after the First World War it cut straight through villages and vineyards, and the region's wine culture still faces both ways. Its centre is Lake Neusiedl, a vast sheet of water rarely two metres deep, whose autumn mists breed noble rot — Ruster Ausbruch, the lake's great sweet wine, was prized across Europe as early as the seventeenth century.
The same Pannonian warmth that rots the sweet grapes ripens Austria's best reds on the drier shores and the Leitha hills. Chief among them is Blaufränkisch, whose claim to a homeland is strongest here — spicy, dark-fruited, increasingly grown like a cru wine, vineyard by vineyard, on limestone and schist.